Dunbrody is the archetypal country house complete with spacious, well-appointed bedrooms, attentive service, a delightful garden in a 20-acre estate and so on: everything you would expect of the luxury establishment it is. The surprise unfolds in the restaurant whose gastronomic authority is equal to the best in any European capital. The appreciative, well- travelled clientele proves the point. No simpering, hushed tones here, the place is a buzz with enthusiasm as much from the diners, many local, as from the staff in attendance. Just as surprising is that it took only four years to transform Dunbrody from a romantic ruin to the star attraction is has now become. The hotel's other great asset is its location - on the historic and beautiful Hook Peninsula.